Okay guys (gals),
I have built quite of few boats, I came up on a new project.. 14' stripper canoe.
The hull is stripped in cedar strips, encapsulated with 6 oz fiberglass, 4 coats of epoxy..
Wow 
, some purity boat...
, some purity boat... The beauty of wood must not be hidden under some paint..
The issue here is; I want to varnish the hull (outside bottom) with some varnish with UV protection.. This canoe isn't going to be sitting in the water all the time like some larger boats. I don't need bottom paint like I did with the others I have built..
I want to survey for some people advice on what the most recommended brand of varnish(es) that have the best quality.. I want it to last.
Larry, I have built 2 strippers On all of my boats I have used Valspar spar varnish on these and a 10' sailing dinghy I had as a teenager. The varnish holds up beautifully in the sun. The canoe above sits out daily on its rack during the summer months and the finish looks great - accept where I've banged into rocks on the Namekagan! I don't think you can go wrong with any of the name brand varnishes as I believe they all have UV inhibitors incorporated into them. Good luck... Strippers are fun to build...
ReplyDeleteAndy, Oh, very nice looking beauty there.. Thank you for your advices.. So, I don't need to spend a large sum of money for fancy marine varnish... And thank again for quick response..
ReplyDeleteActually the Valspar is a marine varnish and no, its not especially costly. I am thinking it runs around 10$-12$ per quart. A little bit goes a long way... Good luck!
ReplyDeleteLarry, I built a cedar strip cosine wherry and used Z*Spar 2015 Flagship Varnish. 2015 Flagship Varnish has 6 times the UV protection than the 1015 Captain's Varnish. Z*Spar states that 2015 has the highest UV protection of any of the varnishes out there. After all the work of building a "Stripper" it just doesn't make sense to go cheap on the protective coating. I applied a coat and started wet sanding with 400 grit. After doing this 2 more times, and a final sanding with 600 grit, I applied the final coat thinned by 1/2. Looks like glass! As an adjuct I really recommend using "Mirka" sanding paper from Finland. Really cuts beautifully! Will
ReplyDeleteHello boylesboats I've been building and restoring wooden boats for around 10 years and love it . I've found that epifanes varnish is the best & yes it has UV protection or it work best for me!!!
ReplyDeleteHI do you thin the varnish at any time during the varnishing ,someone said thin the first coat with 10% thiners someone else said thin the last coat, now I am lost?
ReplyDeletebosdolics.
On raw wood, thin the varnish so that it penetrates into the wood. I would NEVER thin the last coat for fear of runs. I generally follow the rules on the Epifanes can: thin 50% first coat for penetration, then 30%, then 20% for the next two coats. After that you'll want just straight varnish. Now the Gentleman's Racers that I do, have a minimum of 12-16 coats, not necessary for a canoe, mind you, but if you put on your three cut-coats, then at least two full strength coats, with just a lite sanding in between, then with a firm foam pad (piece of styrofoam SM works well), trying to make it as flat as possible, the flatter it is the more shine it will have, keeping that wet look that we are all looking for. Hope this helps!!! -Joe-
ReplyDeleteYa, I did used some spar urethane, applying it with a foam brush... Nice thing about foam brushes, there no bristles to shed in the finsh coats... If you keep the strokes going one way, less the bubbles are to form... After ya use the brush, just toss it the trash....
ReplyDeleteHi Joe
ReplyDeletethats sounds good advice
next question I am busy varnishing the oars but finding it hard not to leave any lines ,ie hold the handle then varnish the shaft and paddle wait till dry then sand then hold the paddle and varnish the handle how would you do it thanks again for all the help.
Bosdolics
I have also used a metal coathanger to hang my paddles vertically while I varnish and dry. I cut off the bottom section of the c.h. about 1" in from the bends, sharpen briefly with a file and bend sharply up. These hooks grab into the underside of the grip and work very well. I just hang it from the garage joists. I find that I can handle several at a time this way. And I rarely get a drip. The varnish, if good quality, should "fill in" so you don't get lines. As a side note: For years I have seen varying opinions between people I consider to be experts. Some folks varnish the entire paddle, shaft and all and others advise just varnishing the blade and oil finishing the shaft and grip. The concern being constant use like on a canoe trip, you more easily develop blisters and sore hands with shafts varnished. I've tried both and maybe its me, but I have never developed blisters from this and I have taken many 5 plus day paddling trips. I also like the additional water repellancy of a varnished shaft...
ReplyDeleteI would hang those oars up, then take a nice lint-free cotton rag, soak the rag with finish of your choice, wipe it on.. That how I did it with my paddles
ReplyDeleteAs a professional kayak builder (and former boatyard worker) and one who varnished plenty of boats, I can recommend a Dutch varnish by the name of Epifanes as by far the best and most long-lasting varnish I've used. Also, you do not need to thin it, as it is being used over Epoxy. Be careful to prep the surface with both 320 grit and soap and water, to remove any traces of Amine Blush, associated with the curing of the epoxy. I would put on a minimum of 5-6 coats, wet-sanding with 400 wet-or-dry bretween coats. I would also consider varnishing the inside of the canoe, as it gets sunshine too, which will turn Epoxy yellow and quickly destroy it. Dick Simonsen St. Croix Boat Shop and School
ReplyDeleteDick,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the helpful varnishing tips. I have long admired the beauty of
wooden handcrafted kayaks. Two questions. 1) Does the fact that you are in St.
Croix with her beautiful weather still mean that the process will hold for
the Northeast U.S.? 2) Do you recommend any particular kind of kayak and/or
specific plans for the novice wooden kayak builder?
I am in NY and thinking of taking out my plastic sea kayak on this
beautiful soon to be 50 degree almost Christmas time day on the bay.
Smooth sailing,
Jesse
time does flies... This is very helpful old thread
ReplyDeleteI have added a tag to this thread "varnish" so it can be found easier.
ReplyDelete