JR, they are in the daysailer album, page 2. I hope they are clear enough, I made them on Microsoft Paint. I like how it handles, pretty easy setup. I use an old bench to support the long pieces . In the future I might try to rig this to work off of my work bench even though it would have to be slanted (the jig) somehow. If you try it, let me know how you like it. Andy
Andy-- As Rosanna Rosanadana used to say, "...Never Mind...". I just didn't figure out how to navigate to the folder where the name "Day Sailer" was evident. When that happened, I was OK. Couple of comments/questions: 1. I can see the advantage when you are joining two same-width strips at a 90-degree join; both angles are the same and complementary, so the scarf is simplified and (probably) more accrurate using the planer. What happens if the two pieces are parts of a curved piece (as when making Hull Planks in lapstrake work, or when the curve is a compound one resulting in a multi-curved plank)? Looks like lining up the parts would be a problem--how do you handle this issue? 2. There are a couple of power planers on my post-Christmas Sale shopping list. How do you keep the blades on yours from digging into the jig? What should I look for in my purchase to make best use of your idea? 3. Seems like you'd want (a) good side clearance on the planer, or a rail (or similar) for the planer to ride on without gouging the jig and (b) a technique for lowering your cut (as opposed to raising/advancing the workpieces) that didn't risk misalignment in subsequent passes. In an old issue of some forgotten woodworking magazine, I saw a similar tool that used tapered ramps and a router, riding on a bridge between the ramps. The bridge was made of MDF, with a slot just wide enough for a planer bit; it had sides spaced just the width of the router, and the bridge slid incrementally down the ramp, while the router moved transversely to slice off a little of the wood at a time. My luck with it was limited as I couldn't afford planer bits at the time, so my plain bits cut irregular grooves that needed to be smoothed out with a belt sander. However, that old sharpie still sails every year, and the scarfs seem to be holding out pretty well! If it's OK with the PC police, happy new year! JR
JR: I have never made/scarfed plywood planking ( for lapstrake ) although that is going to be involved in my next project (20 - 25 ft cruising sailer). I would assume that it is done the same way I did the curved plywood panels for my 16 footer. I probably didn't make clear that I cut scarfs on two pieces of planking at one time, they are sandwiched with the curve of the planking matching on both pieces and face to face. I tried uploading an illustration of this onto this posting but the file was too big, so I posted it on page 2 of the Daysailer album. I hope that all of this makes sense to you. As far as the planer guidance and clearance, you will note that in the plan illustration, the light blue area is "cut out" to accommodate the passage of the planer. This was first done accidentally when I took too big a "bite" with the planer, but actually found that in future use of the jig, it made it easier for getting good passes with the planer. As far as a guide, the Guide Block/Board Clamp is used to firmly hold the planking in position and if you keep a steady hand and press firmly sideways against the clamp, the planer moves right along for each pass... Hope this helps, let me know... Andy
Hiya fellas, Give Joel Mill's scarfing pages a look see. A most taleneted individual (profesional) that has decided to share the wealth of his knowledge freely on his website. He is a member here and probably still monitors the forum for stitch and glue questions. It has been kinda quiet around here. Thanks be to Joel... http://www.boatbuilder.org/mudpeepscarfingandlofting.htm
Kruez: Good stuff on Joel's site. Definite advantage when doing several planks (pieces). JR, 2 years ago I bought a "cheap" power hand planer made by Black and Decker. It works quite well and has plenty of power. The blades are easily changed (also reversible). I do know from experience that the blades need to be SHARP!!! They are fortunately very inexpensive so I don't feel bad about changing blades often. I keep my old blades when I want to do rough planing. I also make carving knives from the old blades. Andy
CB: They are on Page One of the Photo Album section. Mine is the "Top row, second from left" showing the frames/ribs set up for the daysailer. I know it comes up alternately on a different photo album page (1) as the 4th or 5th one down. Thanks for looking... Andy
Thanks, Andy. I'm getting ready to go to work on a self-designed daysailer (hull model is underway, see attachment) that will probably use ultra-light stitch-and-glue construction techniques for a hull foundation, to be finished in laminated strip-built fashion with salvaged redwood, cedar and douglas fir. The idea is to get the faired surface first, then laminate on the strips for strength, durability and great looks. If I can build the foundation, then staple the strips into a bed of glue-mix epoxy followed by sanding and a fiberglass-epoxy shell, the result could be spectacular. This particular hull model assumes a length of 2-1/2 sheets of 4x8 1/4" doug fir plywood, (total seven plus scantlings and masts/booms) with a full whaleboat-style closure at 4'+ for the bow, and only 6" closure at the rear with an angled transom. Length overall is about 20', beam is 5'. She's designed for max stability and shallow draft, and will probably have a balanced lugsail upfront, with a spritsail as a mizzen. I think deep double daggerboards will give the best solutions for sailing in our lakes and rivers up here, with a little deadwood in the stern and a long exposed keel for slow shallow running. I envision a closed airtight storage in the front three feet back to the partners, and two feet of under-deck storage (also watertight floatation) in the stern. Nine-inch decks with raised railings around the entire cockpit area will help avoid swamping, but the broad beam and shallow draft should obviate the need. Any opinions would be welcomed. JR in Spokane
Thanks, Kreuz-- I'm convinced now that I gotta get that planer that's advertised in Harbor Freight. It's just the ticket for what I need to scarf up those sheets. JR
Andy-- Looking for your scarfing jig plans. Which Album are they in?? JR
ReplyDeleteJR, they are in the daysailer album, page 2. I hope they are clear enough, I made them on Microsoft Paint. I like how it handles, pretty easy setup. I use an old bench to support the long pieces . In the future I might try to rig this to work off of my work bench even though it would have to be slanted (the jig) somehow. If you try it, let me know how you like it. Andy
ReplyDeleteAndy-- I know you're going to think me incompetent (might be right), but I can't find your plans for that scarfing jig anywhere. Help Please? Tx, JR
ReplyDeleteAndy-- As Rosanna Rosanadana used to say, "...Never Mind...". I just didn't figure out how to navigate to the folder where the name "Day Sailer" was evident. When that happened, I was OK. Couple of comments/questions: 1. I can see the advantage when you are joining two same-width strips at a 90-degree join; both angles are the same and complementary, so the scarf is simplified and (probably) more accrurate using the planer. What happens if the two pieces are parts of a curved piece (as when making Hull Planks in lapstrake work, or when the curve is a compound one resulting in a multi-curved plank)? Looks like lining up the parts would be a problem--how do you handle this issue? 2. There are a couple of power planers on my post-Christmas Sale shopping list. How do you keep the blades on yours from digging into the jig? What should I look for in my purchase to make best use of your idea? 3. Seems like you'd want (a) good side clearance on the planer, or a rail (or similar) for the planer to ride on without gouging the jig and (b) a technique for lowering your cut (as opposed to raising/advancing the workpieces) that didn't risk misalignment in subsequent passes. In an old issue of some forgotten woodworking magazine, I saw a similar tool that used tapered ramps and a router, riding on a bridge between the ramps. The bridge was made of MDF, with a slot just wide enough for a planer bit; it had sides spaced just the width of the router, and the bridge slid incrementally down the ramp, while the router moved transversely to slice off a little of the wood at a time. My luck with it was limited as I couldn't afford planer bits at the time, so my plain bits cut irregular grooves that needed to be smoothed out with a belt sander. However, that old sharpie still sails every year, and the scarfs seem to be holding out pretty well! If it's OK with the PC police, happy new year! JR
ReplyDeleteJR: I have never made/scarfed plywood planking ( for lapstrake ) although that is going to be involved in my next project (20 - 25 ft cruising sailer). I would assume that it is done the same way I did the curved plywood panels for my 16 footer. I probably didn't make clear that I cut scarfs on two pieces of planking at one time, they are sandwiched with the curve of the planking matching on both pieces and face to face. I tried uploading an illustration of this onto this posting but the file was too big, so I posted it on page 2 of the Daysailer album. I hope that all of this makes sense to you. As far as the planer guidance and clearance, you will note that in the plan illustration, the light blue area is "cut out" to accommodate the passage of the planer. This was first done accidentally when I took too big a "bite" with the planer, but actually found that in future use of the jig, it made it easier for getting good passes with the planer. As far as a guide, the Guide Block/Board Clamp is used to firmly hold the planking in position and if you keep a steady hand and press firmly sideways against the clamp, the planer moves right along for each pass... Hope this helps, let me know... Andy
ReplyDeleteHiya fellas, Give Joel Mill's scarfing pages a look see. A most taleneted individual (profesional) that has decided to share the wealth of his knowledge freely on his website. He is a member here and probably still monitors the forum for stitch and glue questions. It has been kinda quiet around here. Thanks be to Joel... http://www.boatbuilder.org/mudpeepscarfingandlofting.htm
ReplyDeleteKruez: Good stuff on Joel's site. Definite advantage when doing several planks (pieces). JR, 2 years ago I bought a "cheap" power hand planer made by Black and Decker. It works quite well and has plenty of power. The blades are easily changed (also reversible). I do know from experience that the blades need to be SHARP!!! They are fortunately very inexpensive so I don't feel bad about changing blades often. I keep my old blades when I want to do rough planing. I also make carving knives from the old blades. Andy
ReplyDeleteAndy, Can't find your photo album, what section is it in. Would like to see your pictures. CB
ReplyDeleteCB: They are on Page One of the Photo Album section. Mine is the "Top row, second from left" showing the frames/ribs set up for the daysailer. I know it comes up alternately on a different photo album page (1) as the 4th or 5th one down. Thanks for looking... Andy
ReplyDeleteThanks, Andy. I'm getting ready to go to work on a self-designed daysailer (hull model is underway, see attachment) that will probably use ultra-light stitch-and-glue construction techniques for a hull foundation, to be finished in laminated strip-built fashion with salvaged redwood, cedar and douglas fir. The idea is to get the faired surface first, then laminate on the strips for strength, durability and great looks. If I can build the foundation, then staple the strips into a bed of glue-mix epoxy followed by sanding and a fiberglass-epoxy shell, the result could be spectacular. This particular hull model assumes a length of 2-1/2 sheets of 4x8 1/4" doug fir plywood, (total seven plus scantlings and masts/booms) with a full whaleboat-style closure at 4'+ for the bow, and only 6" closure at the rear with an angled transom. Length overall is about 20', beam is 5'. She's designed for max stability and shallow draft, and will probably have a balanced lugsail upfront, with a spritsail as a mizzen. I think deep double daggerboards will give the best solutions for sailing in our lakes and rivers up here, with a little deadwood in the stern and a long exposed keel for slow shallow running. I envision a closed airtight storage in the front three feet back to the partners, and two feet of under-deck storage (also watertight floatation) in the stern. Nine-inch decks with raised railings around the entire cockpit area will help avoid swamping, but the broad beam and shallow draft should obviate the need. Any opinions would be welcomed. JR in Spokane
ReplyDeleteAttachment: SUNP0041.JPG
Thanks, Kreuz-- I'm convinced now that I gotta get that planer that's advertised in Harbor Freight. It's just the ticket for what I need to scarf up those sheets. JR
ReplyDeleteHere are the scarfing jig photos and diagrams for those that were unable to find them in the photo album... Scarfing Jig 1.5
ReplyDeleteScarfing Jig 1.3
Scarfing Jig 1.4
Scarfing Jig 1.2 Scarfing Jig Scarf detail