Here is a link to a photo on my website and also to the alterations I made to the original design.
http://www.pmaynard.lunarpages.com/index_files/image029.gif
http://www.pmaynard.lunarpages.com/index_files/image031.gif
http://www.pmaynard.lunarpages.com/index_files/image032.gif
Hi, yes she's the Curlew. I adjusted the frames slightly for 1/4" plywood, and unintentially altered a couple of frames abaft the centerboard slot. The ply was attached with epoxy and brass screws every 6-8 inches, and a 6 inch strip of fibreglass cloth was epoxied to all outside seams. I had originally intended to coat the entire hull with epoxy before priming but cost moved me to marine-prime and tape seams instead. List of Materials Used (so far) Stem - red oak salvaged from a dining room table, laminated 2 - 1"thick pieces Transom - white pine edge-glued with epoxy Frames - redwood salvaged from my father-in-law's boathouse. He worked for the Dept of Trans. for many years and bought about 20 5x6-6' bolts from the department, left-overs from a guardrail project. They had been residing in his boathouse for about 20 years before I got them. Beautiful timber! Plywood - AC Centerboard slot is 3/4 marine ply (also from my father-in-law) with the frames made from the recycled oak. Skeg - White pine, salvaged from my business. This timber is from 1903 and was cut during the "great" logging era here in NW Wisconsin. Ran it through my planer and hey presto! Epoxy and Glue - West System 105/207, left over from my stripper canoe, and Elmer's phenolic woodworking glue. Fasteners - Brass from a company called FastenAll. I wish I'd known about screws that are full-widthed in the barrel and shank, but everything is glued in and epoxied over so I guess I won't worry. As stated some place earlier, I have a seasoned white spruce log I was going to use for a mast but checking may have prevented this so I will probably go to a seasoned 4x4 or else Birdsmouth construction with a tabernacle fitting. She is on hold for a little while as her housing (my greenhouse) needs to be taken down and moved to my new business location. so I am going to rig a pvc pipe awning to protect from the fall rains until I re-erect the greenhouse. I will try and check out your website this evening. Andy
ReplyDeleteShe sails very well, when I'm solo I put 2 X 50# sandbags, 1 each side of the aft end of the trunk. It's ideal with 2 aboard. I used the stock sail plan, the little jib makes a surprising difference. I hope to see your's finished, where are you located?, I am just south of Philadelphia, I usually take it to the north end of the chesapeake.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the sandbag tip. What did you use for the swing keel. I have a large sheet of 1/4" boiler plate which I am going to have cut into 2 keels (second one for the next boat). Unfortunately, unless I win the lottery me traveling beyond the bounds of NW Wisconsin with a sailboat, the prospect of me traveling out east are slim to non-existent. I've never sailed on "big" water but intend to do the coastal Lake Superior thing. Your pics and videos are excellent. You've proven my hypothesis that this is an aesthetically pleasing boat! You should get kudo's for finishing your Curlew to such a high degree. I really want to outfit her with traditional bronze hardware. Economics dictates that some of the rigging tackle will be galvanized for now. Well got to go back to work... glad to talk with ya... Andy
ReplyDeleteThanks. I stole completely the CB shown for the mallard demonstrator used in Ruel Parker's sharpie book. What I only appreiciated recently is that if I stuck with the original plans, I would not have to use sand bags when sailing solo, however I get better performance with the 1-1/2" thick foil shape I used. I just edge glued 2 x 12 and power planed/belt sanded it to shape and fiberglassed it. My suggestion is if you are mostly going to sail solo is stick with the original plans, if you are mostly sailing with 2 or more then a lighter more efficient thicker wooden board is better with the condition that you have to sandbag it solo. Since my wood board floats up in the well (did not weight it), I did opposite the normal convention and pull it into the down position with a bungee. I have several different holes I can set the bungee in to get different depths.
ReplyDeletePhil
I think that I will have to stick with the steel pivot. I will mostly be sailing alone (assuming my wife doesn't develop an overwhelming passion for being on the water for long periods of time). I am just guessing here but wouldn't the steel CB give you a more stable "platform" in big, rough waters? I really am planning on spending a lot of sailing time on Lake Superior with a goal of eventually sailing the entire coastline. (this kindof goes along with my dream of; as an 18 year old; x-country skiing and snowshoeing the entire Wisc. Ice Age Trail - age and responsibility have crept up on me) and I think that I would prefer to give up some performance aspects in lieu of soloing safety. We have a few small boat regattas in the area here where I would consider dropping out the steel CB in favor of a lighter wood CB. Great idea using the bungee! What kind of gooseneck did you use and where did you get it from. I have been looking at the Bristol Bronze catalog and am debating on using one of their t-track gn's or going with a ring type, any advice in this area? I am also designing a tent/shelter for the boat so I can camp in it. The $50 trailer I picked up (see photo album) is naturally costing me a little more than expected. First, my tire expert said that my rims were too rusted to be safe (these are tube and tire affairs) and that the rim style is so old (30 yrs plus) they could not even locate replacement. The spindle/hub(?) configuration is different on the new style wheels and so I would have to replace the axles also. So with the new rollers plus new wheel system, support jack for tongue, plus repainting it would end up costing $275 to $300. After much discussion with my buddies (they really are friends of mine) at the tire center I took the rims home and spent about 3 hours steel brushing and using a Dremel grinder to take off all of the flaking rust from the inside of the rims. I have coated the entire inside with that liquid rubber for dipping tool handles in and my tire guy and girl (they are a brother/sister team) say that they should now be able to safely put tubes in. So my cost now has dropped a $140 and is much more palatable. I need to move her tomorrow afternoon and I was assured that the new tires will be put on in the a.m. well, gotta go, my wife would like the computer for a while this a.m. before we both go to work. take care, Andy
ReplyDeleteThe steel plate will defintly give you more stabillity, also note that the shape as drawn will put more weight down low when the board is down compared to more modern designs. It's usually not easy to change boards so I would expect whichever board you build, that's the one you will use.
ReplyDeleteThe gooseneck looks like in this link except that mine is mounted on a short piece of sail track instead of internal aluminum mast track. I bent the boom tangs to fit my wider wooden boom. I do not know the exact model number, your best bet is to find some small boat guys near you and look at what they did, I'm no expert when it comes to boat hardware.
http://www.glen-l.com/designs/sailboat/sail-gooseneck.html