All my pics are stored there - you have to provide email addr to sign up. but it is free.
In simple terms - the bigger the vacuum pump, the better I used 4.5 CFM - I would have liked 10 CFM.
I used contractor grade poly sheeting for the bag, duct tape for sealing - and caulking material (Mortite) a clay like substance available at the Depot.
Used polyester fabric (from fabric store) for release fabric, and quilt batting for breather material..
Lots written on the subject - my opinion is it makes a superior glue lamination and you could never do it with staples alone.
Not finished yet - still doing interior design and layout before putting the deck on. I'm hoping to be done by this time next year. Summer tends to slow production.
For bagging: having the work vertical or not doesn't matter. You need to get the vacuum up to ~17" HG (on vacuum gauge) or greater. if you are putting 2 sheets of ply together - you need a thin glue line (think of how thin the glue line is in plywood) .
I used a v-notch spreader with tiny little notches (made by West System) and spead the lightly thickened epoxy that way.
After that - vacuum pressure is all about staying ahead of the leaks. Like a boat - it will float as long as the bilge pumps pump faster than the boat leaks. A vacuum bag is the same way. If the vacuum pump stays ahead of the leaks (and you will most likely have even tiny ones.) you will be fine.
A high CFM pump helps you stay ahead of leaks better. You also don't want air pockets to form in the bag - that is why breather fabric is used - to allow the air an exit route.
You should test bag the wood before glueup to be sure you have it all figured out.
It took me 5-6 times to simplify the process down. My first couple of tries were a bit rough.. Now I think I could bag something with plastic wrap and bubble gum.. It is a really simple concept that looks hard.
Hey CB, I have a video on the "vacume bagging" subject I can loan to you. It's more automotive related (if I remember corretly) but you will get the gist of things... It's in my collection at school. Let me know if you want to borrow it... -Kruez-
I'm looking for information on vacuum baging as related to wood lamination. Anyone with any information or experience, please advise.
I've done tons of it..
ReplyDeleteSee: http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=4291051329
All my pics are stored there - you have to provide email addr to sign up. but it is free.
In simple terms - the bigger the vacuum pump, the better I used 4.5 CFM - I would have liked 10 CFM.
I used contractor grade poly sheeting for the bag, duct tape for sealing - and caulking material (Mortite) a clay like substance available at the Depot.
Used polyester fabric (from fabric store) for release fabric, and quilt batting for breather material..
Lots written on the subject - my opinion is it makes a superior glue lamination and you could never do it with staples alone.
Bob
Bob,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the info, your boat is a real Jem. Is it finished
yet?
You might want to check out the progress on JEZEBEL II in
Best of luck on your project, keep in touch.
CB
Not finished yet - still doing interior design and layout before putting the deck on. I'm hoping to be done by this time next year. Summer tends to slow production.
ReplyDeleteFor bagging: having the work vertical or not doesn't matter.
You need to get the vacuum up to ~17" HG (on vacuum gauge) or greater. if you are putting 2 sheets of ply together - you need a thin glue line (think of how thin the glue line is in plywood) .
I used a v-notch spreader with tiny little notches (made by West System) and spead the lightly thickened epoxy that way.
After that - vacuum pressure is all about staying ahead of the leaks. Like a boat - it will float as long as the bilge pumps pump faster than the boat leaks. A vacuum bag is the same way. If the vacuum pump stays ahead of the leaks (and you will most likely have even tiny ones.) you will be fine.
A high CFM pump helps you stay ahead of leaks better.
You also don't want air pockets to form in the bag - that is why breather fabric is used - to allow the air an exit route.
You should test bag the wood before glueup to be sure you have it all figured out.
It took me 5-6 times to simplify the process down. My first couple of tries were a bit rough.. Now I think I could bag something with plastic wrap and bubble gum.. It is a really simple concept that looks hard.
Hope this makes sense.
Bob
Bob,
ReplyDeleteIt may be just as easy to stay with lots of screws.
It appears the cost of disposable items can get quit high
when you have large areas to do and a lot of them. Any way,
Don
Hey CB, I have a video on the "vacume bagging" subject I can loan to you. It's more automotive related (if I remember corretly) but you will get the gist of things... It's in my collection at school. Let me know if you want to borrow it... -Kruez-
ReplyDelete